Bias Binding—Outside Corners

     My last post was about the Butterick 4790 Walkaway dress. In this post, I'd like to show you how I applied the bias binding.
     In almost every tutorial, the bias binding is applied one side at a time. Here is an example, from oliver + s.
     I prefer, whenever possible, to apply the binding in one pass. I just sandwich the fabric into the folded binding and sew. Store-bought bias binding usually has uneven sides. This is completely intentional. Lay your binding with the short side facing outward, i.e., on the outside of the garment.

     I have a trick for mitering those corners. First, you need to mark the tip of the corner on the bias tape. Use a pin to mark the spot where the fold meets the edge of the corner. Be careful not to pull; binding is cut on the bias (bias binding!), which means it can stretch and warp. Be gentle laying it.

     You will need some cardboard for this next step. I just use old cracker and cereal boxes. Cue-cards would work too. You want to mark the angle of the corner onto the cardboard to make a sort of template. You can use the fabric or the sewing pattern. Just mark the tip of the corner.

 You can then use a ruler to extend the line. Simply cut out, and you have your template. If your garment is symmetrical, you can use that template for the other side too.

 You can quickly test your template for accuracy.

 Now, you have a template and a section of bias binding on which you have marked the apex of the corner. Finger press (just squish with your fingers) the binding so that is is open (not all the way, as you can see in the picture) and folded back onto itself at the apex of the corner.

Lay the corner of the template on the binding so that the point is on the fold. N.B.:The fold on pre-folded, store-bought bias is a little off center. Be sure to accurately position the template on the fold and not the center.

 Transfer the template lines onto the bias. Sew on the transferred lines, trim, and apply Fray Check. Allow to dry.

Turn the trimmed bias binding, and refold it. Press lightly.

 You can now continue laying your binding so that it can be sewn in a single pass. I like to use a sewing pin to help me position the corner inside the mitered binding. Ta-da!

 

The Walkaway Dress—A Review of Butterick 4790

     With it's history, (allegedly) simple construction, and adorable style, the walkaway dress is almost a rite of passage in the vintage-sewing community.
     Despite owning the pattern for several years, I only put it together a few weeks ago. Here is what I think about the Butterick 4790.
     It was fun to sew for the most part, and the finished dress is really cute—on my dress form. It doesn't fit! When working with commercial sewing patterns, I choose a size based on the measurements printed on the actual pattern. These are the measurements of the finished garment (including ease) and are normally found on a FRONT pattern piece

     The pattern envelope gives a waist measurement of 24" for the Size 8. However, as can be seen above, a Size 8 dress will actually have a waist measurement of 26.5". That's 2.5" of ease in the waist and is pretty excessive in my opinion.
     My finished dress in Size 8 barely measures 25.5"! The fabric I used has some stretch, so I may be able to wear it with some serious foundation garments. While it's an option, I was really hoping for something more comfortable.
     The front panel of the dress has two perpendicular darts that are close to each other and very close to the edge (where the binding is applied).

     This was probably my least favourite part of the construction. The edge had to be re-shaped and stay-stitched (again!) to keep everything put.
     I did make some alterations to the back piece, where it wraps around the waist at the front. The original illustration shows straight lines that come together in the front to make a "v." The re-printed pattern, however, is scooped out. Here is a post by Edelweiss Patterns Blog, which shows the alteration. It's very easy to do.
     I did some other alterations as I went along. I chose to use a hook and eye to fasten the front panel (in the back). Also, the buttons I wanted to use were a little smaller than recommended, so I used four instead of three. I also used four snaps (behind each button) instead of three.

     Despite being listed as a VERY EASY pattern, it still requires the hemming of a circle skirt, four double-ended darts, and a lot of bias binding with a couple of outside corners. It's not difficult, but it's also not for the beginner.    
     Making size adjustments to the pattern would be a little tricky because of how the dress wraps around the torso. The front of the dress is a sheath that wraps around the back, and the back is a bodice with a circle skirt that wraps around the front. I would highly recommend making a muslin if you have made size adjustments.
    

     Actually, I would recommend a muslin. Period. 

     

     With that said, I still like the dress and the pattern. Just don't let the hype fool you.