Greaser Jeans: The Last Muslin

Here is the fifth muslin for my greaser jeans.  It appears I have resolved the baggy crotch.  All I had to do was decrease the back crotch extention.  The point that sticks out on the back piece - take it in a bit, following the crotch line, and then taper and blend into the existing in-seam.  Make sense? 
Now I would love to make these up right away.  But the holidays are approaching and I have a few christmas gifts I need to sew first. 

GRRRRRreaser Jeans: Third muslin - *sigh*

Pants are HARD!!!  Here are the first and second muslins.  For the third muslin, I decided to add .5" to the back crotch extension.  And I changed the shape of the front crotch to something flatter and less roomy.  Here is what I got. 

I omitted the back yoke because it has nothing to do with the fit.  The back crotch fits better, however I still have a massive pouch on the front.  So perhaps I should reduce the front crotch extension....I turned my pants inside out to expose the intersecting crotch seams.  Then I made a small fold on the front side of the seam and pinned.  I had to do this several times to get the fold the right size.

Finally...

I will measure the fold, multiply by 2, and that will be the crotch extension adjustment.   I hope this is the last muslin.

Greaser Jeans: The second muslin

Here are the greaser jeans, round two.  You can see round one here.

I added ease in the crotch length and hips.  I'm pretty happy with everything, except the crotch.  The back crotch is a little tight but the front crotch is a little loose.  I'm going to play with the crotch shape,break and extension settings in the Style Editor of PatternMaster Boutique4 and see if I can figure this out. 

I also added a back yoke but it's purely esthetical.  My lower back darts are 7" long so I transfered the dart to the center back seam and then cut off the yoke.  I like how it breaks up the length, especially since these are waist length.

I omitted the pockets in this muslin.  They were quite easy and they don't affect the fit.

And I tried my hand at flat felled seams.  I've wanted to do flat felled seams for a long time but curved seams scared me.  I figured a muslin would be a good place to practice.  Turns out all you need is a tailor's ham.  They are quite fun and look very neat from both sides. 

PatternMaster Boutique 4: Pants sloper III

My last sloper had too much crotch in the front.  You can see here when I bend forward slightly....yuck!

 Here it is with the excess pinned out. 

 Now with the excess pinned out I remeasured my crotch length using the bottom of the waistband to locate my waist.  Whooa!  25.5!  That's a long way from the 28" I used in my first sloper.   I remeasured the crotch length while wearing my first sloper and I got 27" because of all the extra fabric.  Here is the third sloper with the new crotch length.  Much better! 

PatternMaster Boutique4 : Pants sloper II

Well here is the second sloper for my pants.  You can see the first sloper here.  The crotch is better but I think I can still reduce the crotch length.  Also, my butt looks like it's melting from the side.  That's not a good look for me.  I'm not sure how I will remedy that yet.  It may take care of itself when I reduce the croth length further, or I may need to raise the hip depth one inch.  We'll see!

PatternMaster Boutique4: Pants sloper

Here is my first fitting for the PatternMaster Boutique4 pants. This is just the sloper. You can see my fitting for the dress sloper here.

Everything looks pretty good. The only thing that needs to be changed is the crotch length. I used an elastic to locate the waist and when I measured the crotch length I used the upper edge of the elastic which added an inch. It's hard to see in the pictures but the crotch of the pants is very low.