Thursday, June 2, 2011

Re-altered #5 fitting pants

Well I took my altered #5 fitting pants and changed them again.  I removed the back crotch extension and then I scooped out the back crotch curve.  This is what it looks like.  The lower seam line is the new one.

Here are the results:

While it helped with the wedgie it worsened the diagonal wrinkles from cheek to hip.  I prefer the first alteration I did - flattening the back crotch curve.  So I will take this knowledge with me, back to the drafting table (my computer).  And hopefully soon I will have drafted the perfect jeans.

Wednesday, June 1, 2011

Altered Pants Fitting # 5

In the last seven pants fitting I have done, # 5 is the best.  So I took the #5 fitting pants and altered them to see what would improve them. 
I restitched the back crotch so the shape is flatter.  And then I lengthened the back crotch extension ever so slightly.  Here is the result.

I really like these.  They are comfortable and snug enough for me.  My husband likes the way they look.  But I don't know anymore what pants are supposed to look like.

Tuesday, May 31, 2011

Fitting Jeans #7

Here is my latest fitting garment.  These stupid jeans again.  I am so close but still not close enough.  And every fitting results in only modest improvements.  *sigh*  These are actually very comfortable but they are very loose.   
For this pair I took my Fitting Jeans #5 and simply added a 0.5" extension to the back crotch. 

It looks like 0.5" might have been too much.  And I should probably reduce hip ease. 

Monday, May 30, 2011

Voila! Motorcycle Jacket Lining

The lining came together so easily.  There were no darts.  I serged all the raw edges before sewing and then I bound them all in bias tape.  Here it is ready to be sewn in. 

I used a blindstitch to attach the lining to the coat.  It was easy but it took forever. 

DH is so excited.  He has a big ride this coming weekend and he can't wait to show everyone.

Sunday, May 29, 2011

Buried Treasure!

I went to a garage sale on saturday and filled my trunk with vintage craft materials.  I found knitting and sewing magazines, sewing patterns, transfers and then some craft supplies.  I even found a Hank Williams Honky Tonkin' record.  This doesn't happen to me very often.  Most of the time the vintage crafts have already been bought or worse, thrown out.
 Here are some of the cooler patterns.

 These are the rest of the patterns.  They are mostly from the 60's thru the 80's.  
 These are the magazines.  There is a December 1950 issue of Better Homes.  Several old knitting and crochet pattern books.  Some even have patterns for bras and corset covers! 
 This box is full of magazines and catalogs from 1905 thru the late 20's.  They are mostly about homemaking.  There are crafts, and handy tips, as well as hilarious adverts.

Sunday, May 22, 2011

Motorcycle jacket lining and copying ready to wear

My husband has asked me to line his motorcycle jacket with chinese brocade.  He doesn't need the sleeves lined, only the bodice.  I decided to use painters tape to make my pattern pieces.  I had to do it twice because the first time I tried to peel off the tape it fell apart. 

I used tailors chalk and marked the center back line. I used my painters tape and placed it along the outline of half the back piece. Then I covered the whole thing in painters tape.

Because it fell apart the first time I decided to reinforce the painters tape with duct tape.  The duct tape is crosswise to the painters tape. 

 I taped the side piece before removing the back piece.
   I checked the lower armhole to make sure the pattern pieces matched.  I used a sharpy to make small corrections.  And I made a few notch marks for lining up the pieces.
 The duct tape reinforcement really helped peel off the pieces. 
Ta Da!  They don't lie perfectly flat and the center back and center front lines are not exactly straight.  But it's a good start.  I will make small corrections when I trace and prepare them for seam allowances. 

Happy Victoria Day weekend!


Tuesday, May 17, 2011

Almost There

After many months of learning to fit pants I can see the light at the end of the tunnel.  Here is my latest muslin.  I'd like to post about all the changes and adjustments I've made but there are SOO many.  Once the pants are perfect I will attempt to outline what I've learned about pants fitting. 

Saturday, April 30, 2011

Finally getting somewhere....

with these pants fittings!!!!  I made four jeans muslins in the last week.  Here is my best one.


 I just have to get rid of the slight wedgie in the back.  I can't wait!!! 

Thursday, April 14, 2011

The Mermaid Skirt: Fitting garment

This is the first fitting garment.
There are a lot of wrinkles and the side seam isn’t falling straight but this is on the dressform. I will wait until my friend - we’ll call her MF for ease of writing - has tried it on to plan the necessary fitting adjustments. MF has a slightly scooped out lower back. I did a sway back adjustment by lowering the back waistline .5” and bowing the legs of the darts. The godet was so much fun to sew. I want to make sure it doesn’t get tangled up between her legs, inside the skirt, when she walks. The drape of my fashion fabric will ensure my godet falls properly. In my test garment, the godet has a tendency to lay flat :(.

Friday, April 8, 2011

The Mermaid Skirt

 Here is my next project; it is for a friend who recently visited. ~sigh~ If I was smart I would have asked her to send measurements and when she got here I could have the fitting garment waiting. Instead I took the measurements while she was here and now we will do the fitting long distance. I’m curious to see how it goes.

This skirt will have a high waist, with points at the front. It will be tapered and fall just below the knees. A single, large and center back godet will provide walking room. It will have a center back lapped zipper.

And this is what my pattern looks like, facings and all. 

Saturday, March 26, 2011

Pushing our luck

My husband and I are big VOLBEAT fans. On Wednesday night, my husband discovered they were playing in Toronto on Friday night and he bought the tickets before even looking at our schedules. Of course the odds were stacked against us. Toronto is nearly 6 hrs away, so we both would have to get off work around noon, and find someone to care for Valentine. It just so happened that I got Friday off (found out on Thursday morning) and Chris got Friday afternoon off. And although Grandpa was unavailable, we managed to find some friends who would take Valentine overnight. Everything just fell into place.
Waiting for the bands to start.
The bands were all fantastic. Hourcast, served the first course. Next up was The Damned Things. And finally Volbeat.

We didn’t want to take advantage of our friends babysitting service, so as soon as they stopped playing shortly after midnight, we went straight back home. And by the time we arrived home, we had been up for 24 hrs. 11 hrs of driving....and it was totally worth it.

The music was SOO loud. We were mostly deaf when we left and I had to yell the directions when we navigated our way outside of the city. It was pretty funny.

Saturday, March 5, 2011

Snow Day!

Just a quick hello.  Daycare is keeping me very busy but I am enjoying it.  I sew a little on the weekends and whenever I get a chance.  We are having a snow day today and I plan on sewing and cutting my hair.  15 cm on it's way!  Check it out. 

I went to the flea market last weekend and was pleasantly surprised.  I found a vintage Ingraham starburst wall clock for $5!  I also found this awesome art deco(?) hutch.   They were asking $40.  I don't have anywhere to put it so I had to be content with taking a few pictures.

Wednesday, January 26, 2011

Apple pie!

Here is tonight's dessert!  I used fresh apples and raisins with cinnamon, nutmeg and brown sugar.  The apples made a lot of juice but the pie was still great. 

Tuesday, January 25, 2011

Pie Crust

Friends are coming for dinner!  YAY!  Fun!  My DH is gone and her DH is gone so we made a date.  I am planning: roast chicken, ratatouille, and fresh baked apple pie.  Here is my pie crust recipe.  I learned it from my mommy, who probably learned it from her mommy, and I don't know where she got it from.  Anyways, here it is....
Place in a bowl:
 2 cups white all purpose flour
2/3 cup frozen shortening.  (Tenderflake is my favourite!)
And a sprinkle of salt. 
Chop up the frozen shortening into pea sized chunks.  I like to use two butter knives but you can also use a pastry cutter.  This is what it should look like....
Get a bowl of ice water and add a splash of vinegar.  (A cereal bowl of ice water, and a shot glass of vinegar is alright.)  And have a clean bowl nearby. 
Start by making a well in the flour mixture.  Add ~ 2 tbsp. of the water mixture to the flour mixture well.  Gently stir, until you form several small clumps.  The clumps should not be bigger than a date; if they are, cut them in half and keep stirring.  The less you handle them the better.  Here are some pictures of clumps and clusters.  The consistency of these clusters is key!  They should be crumbly, however they should stick together when pressed.  Not too wet, not too dry.Now, remove the clump cluster, and place it in the clean bowl.  Keep doing this until the flour mixture is gone. 
This is what it should look like when you are done.
You can make this ahead.  To refrigerate, wrap in plastic wrap.  Remember -the less you handle the better- so be gentle.
Pie tomorrow!

Sunday, January 23, 2011

On Diet and Exercise

I have been trying to establish an exercise routine for a couple of years now.  It's difficult to leave the house.  And when I find something I can do at home, it's difficult to find the time!  Here are a couple of helpful articles and websites.

First up, is Zuzana at BodyRock.  The website is free.  The workouts are effective.  They are done at home.   And they are SHORT!  (30 min. avg.)  YES!  I'm so excited.  Some equipment is necessary but this isn't true of every workout.  And there are a few free interval timer programs online. 

This article is by T NATION and is called Sexy Female Training. It is for ladies who are afraid to bulk up.  A guide to building a toned AND feminine figure.  Sweet!

Last but certainly not least is The Heart Scan Blog written by Dr. William Davis.  A wonderful resource for all your nutrition information.   

Saturday, January 8, 2011

Honourable Discharge

I've been feverishly cleaning up my basement/sewing studio.  I'm almost done!  Santa brought me a new sewing machine and serger so I had to make room.  I put my old Singer 217 and the Singer Spartan away.  Honourable discharge. 

 While I look forward to all the bells and whistles on my Husqvarna Viking Emerald 183 I will never forget my 217.  The low whooshing sound followed by a greasy muffled tik is so calming.  It's simplicity makes it easy to fix the odd time it breaks.  Here is my new sewing corner.  

I've haven't done much sewing lately; I've been so busy cleaning up and organizing.  Hopefully soon I can finish my husband's western shirt.

Saturday, January 1, 2011

Happy New Years Everyone!

Hi everyone!  It's great to be back.  I had an awesome Christmas and New Years with lot's of family and relaxation.  Santa spoiled me this year and I got a brand new Husqvarna Viking sewing machine and serger.  I'll have to reorganize my sewing area before I can break them out and what a day that will be!  I also got Susan Khalje Bridal Couture on CD. 

I am making a shirt for my husband from a commercial pattern.  It's nice to simply sew for once.  Patternmaking and fitting was beginning to drive me insane. 

I've decided that I'm still not happy with my last greaser muslin and that's what I'll be sinking my teeth into just as soon as I finish Chris' shirt.