Bias Binding—Outside Corners

     My last post was about the Butterick 4790 Walkaway dress. In this post, I'd like to show you how I applied the bias binding.
     In almost every tutorial, the bias binding is applied one side at a time. Here is an example, from oliver + s.
     I prefer, whenever possible, to apply the binding in one pass. I just sandwich the fabric into the folded binding and sew. Store-bought bias binding usually has uneven sides. This is completely intentional. Lay your binding with the short side facing outward, i.e., on the outside of the garment.

     I have a trick for mitering those corners. First, you need to mark the tip of the corner on the bias tape. Use a pin to mark the spot where the fold meets the edge of the corner. Be careful not to pull; binding is cut on the bias (bias binding!), which means it can stretch and warp. Be gentle laying it.

     You will need some cardboard for this next step. I just use old cracker and cereal boxes. Cue-cards would work too. You want to mark the angle of the corner onto the cardboard to make a sort of template. You can use the fabric or the sewing pattern. Just mark the tip of the corner.

 You can then use a ruler to extend the line. Simply cut out, and you have your template. If your garment is symmetrical, you can use that template for the other side too.

 You can quickly test your template for accuracy.

 Now, you have a template and a section of bias binding on which you have marked the apex of the corner. Finger press (just squish with your fingers) the binding so that is is open (not all the way, as you can see in the picture) and folded back onto itself at the apex of the corner.

Lay the corner of the template on the binding so that the point is on the fold. N.B.:The fold on pre-folded, store-bought bias is a little off center. Be sure to accurately position the template on the fold and not the center.

 Transfer the template lines onto the bias. Sew on the transferred lines, trim, and apply Fray Check. Allow to dry.

Turn the trimmed bias binding, and refold it. Press lightly.

 You can now continue laying your binding so that it can be sewn in a single pass. I like to use a sewing pin to help me position the corner inside the mitered binding. Ta-da!